ROME IS WHERE THE HEART IS
WHEN in Rome, do as the Romans do - so the saying goes - and, if you're driving, that might mean slamming on the breaks at pedestrian crossings at the very, very last minute.
But, if you're dandering about through the historic streets of this magnificent city, it means something else entirely, affording the opportunity to drink in at leisure the amazing sights, sounds and smells of this most ancient of civilisations which is at once frantically fast-paced yet amazingly laid back and at ease with itself.
A city of paradoxes it might be, combining the old with the new and the religious with the worldly, but the 'Eternal City' is very much a modern-day diva, proud of her past - even if that did mean throwing a few Christians to the lions in the Colosseum.
This breath-taking structure, a sure stop on 21st Century tourist trail, is standing proof of both the pomp and the cruelty of the Roman world. Built 1,920 years ago, the Colosseum is considered an architectural and engineering wonder, and, certainly, walking towards its faded beauty as the setting sun bathed it in a dusky orange glow, you couldn't help but marvel at the ampitheatre ruins, whatever shadowy secrets it held from yesteryear.
This was one of our first stops on a three-night city break to Rome and we were not disappointed by the landmark sight in a city which is bursting at the seams with architecture, art, food and shopping, the combination of which made this trip a memorable one - all the more satisfying thanks to the warm and sunny October weather.
Choosing where to stay of course can be a vital component in the success of any short break and our choice of the five-star Cavalieri Hilton a few miles from the centre, was the perfect oasis in which to unwind after a hard day's sight-seeing. This luxurious hotel may be little out of the way, but it does offer a free shuttle bus service into town, dropping guests off and collecting them again from the bustling Barberini Square which is just a short stroll away from many of the main sights such as the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon and the lavishly decorated Church of Sant Ignazio.
The Cavalieri Hilton doesn't come cheap, but the Rome view from a deluxe room on the seventh floor will literally take your breath away - especially if you arrive at night and walk out on to the marble balcony in the warm Mediterranean air to be greeted by a thousand twinkling lights dotted across the expansive city skyline.
The friendly member of staff who delivered us personally to our room was able to point out the form of the Colosseum and several famous churches, while St Peter's Basicila and the even more famous Sistine Chapel in the Vatican were even closer and easily recognisable if you leaned over the balcony and looked to your right. Indeed, Rome is a city of domes and there they all were - in their splendour - right under our noses from our hotel room.
Aside from the view, the hotel has many top facilities, including an Imperial Bar with complimentary foods and drinks for seventh floor guests only, a spa, two swimming pools, lush gardens with exercise trail through a mini forest glade, fully equipped gym and exercise studio and even roof-top garden for Penthouse guests.
And, just to remind you that you in the thrall of classical renaissance Rome, as soon as you enter the huge, expensive-looking lobby, you are greeted with scores of oil paintings bearing all the hallmarks of the old masters.
The Cavalieri Hilton is without doubt the most luxurious hotel in Rome, but without the restrictions and snobbery you might expect from a five-star bolthole which boasts the 'Best Hotel Restaurant' in Rome - the three-Michelin star rated Pergola restaurant where award-winning chef Heinz Beck reigns supreme.
In fact, there is a marked relaxed style evident in the public areas, which includes high class boutiques and gift shops where guests can wander about at their leisure and eye-up suitable souvenirs. The food and beverages, including breakfast, in the Imperial Bar on the Seventh Floor was excellent, and although staff were attentive they were never intrusive.
The peaceful haven of the hotel was certainly a welcome retreat after surviving the crush of the Sistine Chapel which unexpectedly turned into a mildly traumatic experience. Such was the lack of crowd control in the labyrinth of corridors and narrow sprial staircases leading to the famous chapel, that our expectation of leisurely inspecting the legendary and intricate beauty of Michael Angelo's famous ceiling was turned on its proverbial head. It was literally a case of shuffling along, shoulder-to-shoulder, with the thousands of other tourists in the building at the same time - and crossing your fingers that no-one fainted in the heat on top of you. Definitely not for the faint-hearted, even if you are a diehard art lover!
One of the great joys while on a break to a warmer climate is eating al fresco - and Rome, having virtually invented the concept, has no end of places to choose from. Another great joy is discovering the bill is not nearly as steep or scary as you assumed it might be! Indeed, eating out in Rome, by today's standards, was surprisingly cheap, especially if you veer off the beaten track and discover some of the many quaint authentic little places in the city's side streets.
No city-break would be complete without a shopping spree of course and in Rome there are a myriad of high fashion and gift shops to choose from. And, if you love leather, you'll be in paradise because Italian leather jackets, bags, belts, wallets and accessories are just about everywhere and in every shade and colour under the sun. Some of the shops are unashamedly touristy, but there are many other smaller boutiques selling one-off pieces that have Italian styling written all over them.
Rome is definitely now one of my top European destinations and I wouldn't hesitate in going back. The flight from Belfast International is only two-and-a-half hours which is a bonus and one of the city's reputable taxi firms can be booked to whizz you along the busy streets in a relatively short journey from either of the city's two airports.
We had heard a few stories about Rome being a hotbed for opportunistic thieves, but this was not our experience. Maybe we were just lucky, but I hope not. The worst trouble we came across was a well policed protest march by students passionate for their cause - and very well dressed ones at that, as you would expect in Italy.
The Cavalieri can be checked out by visiting the website www.RomeCavalieri.com
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Weather for Dromore
Thursday 24 May 2012
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